Bruno Sorg Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 2017. And back to Alsace again. Sorry. If Burn represents the richly flavoured wines of the region and Mader occupies the centre ground, then Sorg is at the steelier, purer end of the spectrum. There’s still a faint touch of residual sweetness, but at the core the wine is more austere than those the others produce. That’s not a bad thing, just a difference. I have to say this isn’t among the best Sorg wines I’ve tasted – it seems strangely muted and short-lasting – but it still went down nicely with a fillet of sea bream that I found waiting for me in the knapsack. No complaints at the 10€ that it cost from the vineyard in 2019.

The first time I visited, Bruno himself was holding court in the tasting room. He summoned his daughter to deal with me, who switched into English and asked me if I had ever been to the Glastonbury Festival. She’d been that year, and proceeded to tell me in detail what an exciting time she’d had. I occasionally glanced towards her father chattering away with his mates, but it was obvious (fortunately) that they had no idea what she was telling me.  She knew that, of course.