Roc de Cambes 2013. At the other end of my wine-drinking experience from Coudoulet, I first drank Roc de Cambes (also a 2013) last year as part of my extended celebrations when I became an OAP. Over the same period I drank Domaine de Cambes and Tertre Roteboeuf (the latter having been a long-held ambition, and what better time?) I couldn’t help thinking the Roc was the sweet spot in the Mitjavile range – it was a glorious Merlot-driven right-banker even though it came from a supposedly lousy vintage. The Dom. de C. was very good, but to my mind a £40-odd bottle should really be more than very good. The TRB was very special of course, but again, for 150 notes…

This bottle reinforced my views that Roc is fabulous stuff. I’ve got one more of these to go, then I have a couple of 2012s and 2014s to try before some 2016s come on stream. Wondering about the order in which to attack them is the kind of thing that you are delighted to have occupy your mind when you are squidging across a muddy field of clay.