2018 J-P Brun Beaujolais l’Ancien. This is the sweet spot in the JPB range for me. It has a bit more backbone than his entry-level Le Ronsay and is a little more approachable than his single appellation wines, which I haven’t quite got the hang of yet. So far they have seemed a little thin, tannic and fierce – perhaps I simply haven’t waited long enough yet. 

L’Ancien also benefits from a bit of bottle age and – I know I’m repeating myself – is far better if you can keep it for a couple of years. Then it is a beautiful, fresh-tasting, light and fragrant Gamay with enough bite to keep it interesting. And most definitely none of that horrible bubble-gum/banana skin flavour that you have come to expect from crappy Nouveau (apparently due to yeast strain 71b, so there.)

Thought for the day… why are both halves and magnums more expensive pro-rata than standard bottles?