Dom. de la Taille aux Loups, Clos de Mosny 2019

One of Jacky Blot’s Montlouis, this is absolutely glorious stuff. A dry Chenin offering peach, pear, apple, quince, you name it aromas and tastes. Chenin Blanc is an amazing thing in the Loire – it can be anything from this through a range of Vouvrays to a sweet Bonnezeaux. Shame it can be about as attractive as paint-stripper in the wrong hands and in the wrong place. I’ve tried just one other still wine from the domaine, a Hauts de Husseau 2017 which I noted was ‘lovely’, but I would probably be hard-pressed to describe any differences between the two without having them both in front of me. This one is sparkling fresh, and I reckon it has many years in front of it. So I’m pleased to note I have eight more – especially as my source (Waitrose, where it cost something like £18 during their 25% off promotions) seems to have dried up.

I’m pretty sure I’ve already mentioned Jacky’s Bourgueils and Triple Zéro sparklers elsewhere during the stroll so far – but no harm in repeating that they are all well worth seeking out.