2015 Au Bon Climat Isabelle Pinot Noir. I’ve always maintained what I felt to be a healthy disrespect towards Pinot Noir. Is there a wine as undeservingly overpriced and over-hyped as Burgundy? Well yes, expensive Claret. But you get my point. But when Gaston helped me pour a glass of this (doctor’s orders say I shouldn’t try to lift anything as heavy as this ridiculously big, thick bottle on my own for a month or two while I recover from a hernia repair) I felt the pillars on which my beliefs are based creaking a little. It’s rather lovely. I get the familial references that some folk make between top-notch Beaujolais and Burgundy straight away (even though this isn’t French) but this is much subtler and more perfumed. Actually, this is fantastic. Great, the last thing I need is an expensive PN habit.